My first backstage stop was at Ohne Titel. They may not get loads of mainstream press but the fashion people love them and rightly so.
Bumble and bumble were doing the hair. Lead stylist Jimmy Paul was a fun and patient interviewee. What I noticed first on many of the girls was these funny little knots on their heads. He said they are called " zulu" knots. They give hair a nice loose texture when undone. This he said is an easy look to achieve at home as well. Mist hair with some Surf Spray , twist up, leave for about 20 minutes and you'll have that beachy texture.
After the knots are undone, the hair was pulled from the forehead down into a low ponytail under that rest of the hair. They wanted no hair falling down towards the face.
Mark Carrasquillo was the lead makeup artist for MAC. Here he was just taking the girls skintone and accentuating it. Cheeks were contoured, lips darkened just a bit more than the natural shade. It was all a natural , sculpted look. Studio Sculpt foundation was very much in use here. One artist had whole bagful of little bottles of it in all tones.
Ohne Titel's show was a study in brown and black. Best look was the first one out, an asymmetrical zip black wool trench , that was a bit 80s. One I would gladly wear . There were lots of zippers, leggings under short dresses ( leggings are everywhere in NY right now, in shows, on people at the shows), draped tunic tops.
all pics: The Beauty Alchemist except runway shot: Style.com